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PATENTED, JANUARY 30th, 1873. 



Entered according to Act of Congress. A. D 1872. by G W T. Hakt.ey, in the office 
of the Liliarian of ( ongressat Washington. 



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Frederick, Md., October, 8th, 1872. 
Mr. G. W. T. Harley : 

Dear Sir. — I have tested your Coat System, for measuring and accurately 
transferring the shape of the human figure, which I entirely approve of, and 
with pleasure recommend it as being the best I have ever used. 

D. G. CRISE, 
No. 7 S. Market St., Frederick, Md. 



Baltimore, October 4th, 1872. 
Mr. G. W. T. Harley : 

Dear Sir. — We the subscribers have thoroughly tested your Coat System, 
for measuring and transferring, and do entirely approve of it and pronounce it 
perfect, and with pleasure recommend it as being the best that has ever been 
offered to the public. 

J. J. BUNTING & CO., Merchant Tailors, 

No. 10 St. Paul Street, Baltimore. 



Baltimore, October, 8th, 1872. 
Mr. G. W. T. Harley : 

Dear Sir. — I take pleasure in informing you that I have tried your Im- 
proved Transfer, for Cutting Coats, and I believe it to be the best instrument 
of the kind in use. I have tested it fully, and in every instance I have re- 
ceived unbounded satisfaction in its use I therefore take pleasure in recom- 
mending it to the trade, feeling assured that it will meet a very felt necessity 
in enabling the intelligent cutter to obtain a--perfect fit in every instance. 
.1 am Sir, Very Respectfully, 

C. A. SCH REINER, 
No. 41 N. Liberty St., Baltimore. 



TO lEfiCIANT TAILORS. 

43* 

In introducing my system for accurately measuring and 
transferring the shape of the human form to a flat surface, 
I can with confidence say it is as near perfection as the 
mind can devise. 

Man is the most perfect in form and carriage of God's 
creation ; and cutting and shaping garments to cover him, 
and show off to the best advantage the symmetry of his per- 
son is a high art, and should rank the designer as the peer 
of the sculptor, who moulds the clay or chisels the marble 
into his counterfeit. 

My system enables the cutter to show off the human 
figure in all its beauty and perfection, and to give grace to 
every movement. 

If your customer should unfortunately be ill -shaped or de- 
formed, it enables you to hide the imperfections. How 
pleasant and comfortable a man feels when first arrayed in 
garments that fit gracefully ; his very heart seems to go out 
in kindness to all his fellow creatures. On the contrary 
when his tailor sends home garments that do not fit, and 
are botched in making, he becomes surly and morose, and 
has not a kind word or smile for any one. 

If you are particular in following the instructions, and 
have your garments made up properly and artistically, you 
need never have the worry of amissfit, but always feel con- 
fident of giving satisfaction. 

G. W. T. HAELEY, 

Frederick City, Md. 



2 
G-. W. T. HARLEY'S 

mtmmmim faihijf Meagure 

Patented January 30th, 1872. 



MeasmiremeMt tor Coat ExpMmei.— See Fig. 2 and 3. 

Mark for height of coat at top of back, also mark for 
upper shoulder point ; measure from mark on top of back to 
the most prominent point between shoulders ; make a mark, 
and note distance, say 5 inches, and continue to natural waist 
16 inches, to artificial waist IS inches, to full length 34 
inches. From 5 measure for artificial width of back 1\ 
inches, to elbow 18 inches, full length of sleeve 32 inches, 
around the scye 17 inches, breast 35 inches, waist 32 inches. 
After taking the above measures, apply the instrument by 
placing the horizontal strips C and D close up under the arm. 
and the upright piece G in front ; at the same time adjust 
the sliding upright J close behind the arm, to find the thick- 
ness of scye. After hooking the slide to button 0, which 
passes through the upright piece G, let the arm of your cus- 
tomer hang naturally to his side, and proceed as follows, 
using a tape line with ring attached : 

Measure 1st. From pivot C as straight across the back as 
the eye can direct, say 6 k inches. 

2d. From pivot C to top of back, at neck, on a straight 
line, say 11 inches. 

3d. To point where seam of sleeve should join the back, 
3 inches. 

[Extra measures may be taken for round shoulder or de- 
formed persons, from pivot S to point where seam of sleeve 
joins the back, and continued by placing your finger on the 
tape line at 3, and continuing the measure to 5 on the back, 
and to top of back at 2, which completes measurment for 
back.l 




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Front Measmre. 

4th. From pivot E, to upper shoulder point, 2iinches. 
5th. To centre of back, at neck bone, 41 inches. 
6th. To centre of back, between shoulders at 5, 7 inches. 
7th. From pivot F, to upper shoulder point, 41 inches. 
8th. From pivot B, to point where the seam of sleeve joins 
the back at 3, 61 inches. 

9th. From pivot D, to centre of breast, 3 inches. 

1 Oth. From pivot H, to natural waist on the back, 8 inches. 

11th. Scye measure 3d hole or 4 1 inches. 



To Transfer Measure Use Paper on Cloth. — See Diagram 4. 

BACK. 

First draw line 0, mark for top of back, go down on line 
5 inches and continue to natural waist 16 inches to arti- 
ficial waist, 18 inches to full length; after which place your 
tape line at top of back and go down 11 inches, 2d measure, 
and mark curve 2 as at pivot 0; go in from line for width 
of back 6i inches, first measure, and make curve 1 where 
curves 1 and 2 intersect form pivot C on the paper ; draw 
right angle with outer edge of cloth for bottom of scye, as 
represented in diagram ; go up from pivot C, (allowing width 
of upright) 3 inches for point where seam of sleeve should 
join back. Form back according to style or fancy. 

FOREPART. 

First adjust slide for width of scye 3d hole, and turn the 
instrument with the pivot side next to the paper; apply 
pivot C on the instrument to pivot C on the paper, keeping 
the instrumeut fiat on the paper ; mark along the frofit of scye 
down to pivot H, also mark pivots E, F, B, D and H on the 
paper ; after which remove the instrument and measure from 
pivots marked on the paper. Place your tape line at pivot 
H, and measure to natural waist on the back 8 inches, less 
width of back ; take out one-half the difference between the 
side-body and fore-part and one-half between back and side- 
body, allowing for seams, and shape side-body to measure. 



From pivot E measure 2i inches and mark curve 4th ; 
measure 41 inches and mark curve 5th ; measure 7 inch and 
mark curve 6th. From pivot F, go up 41 inches and mark 
curve 7th, to intersect curve 4th for upper shoulder joint on 
forepart. 

From pivot B, measure 61 inches and mark curve 8th. 

Add 11 or 2 inches for lap of coat, or 4 inches to one-half 
of breast measure from back seam. 

Form fore-part, after placing the top of back to curve 
5, and upper shoulder point of forepart, and bring point 
5 on the back seam to curve 6, at the same time keep 
your finger on the upper shoulder point of back for pivot, 
and shape shoulder seam so as to bring the point where 
the seam of sleeve should join the back to curve 8th, and 
shape forepart according to style or taste. 

Fig. 2, is a view representing the instrument applied on 
the body, and indicates by dotted lines the back measure. 

Fig. 3, represents the manner of taking the measure of 
the front of the body. 

Fig. 4, is a diagram representing the manner of transfer- 
ring the measure and drafting the front and back. 

iMstriimeait Explained. 

The instrument used, from which the measures are taken 
by the use of a tape line with ring attached, is made entirely 
of metal and weighs but three ounces ; il is self-accommo- 
dating, adapts itself to the body, and is kept firmly on without 
any fastening than by the weight of the arm hanging naturally 
to the side, and is so constructed without the use of a single screw 
as to be readily reversed for measuring or drafting on the right 
or left side. 

Terms. — The instrument with diagrams for measuring and 
drafting Coats, twenty dollars ; System for Pants, ten dollars. 
Instructions extra. 

Letters for information must contain return postage to in- 
sure prompt reply. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 082 844 



